Saturday, August 23, 2008

Driving in America

We spent 2 weeks driving in Nevada and California. This time is sufficient to make a few brief observations.

First of all, how beautiful their roads are! How well maintained and wide they are. Even in a desert all roads were excellent (no unsealed roads except some riding fun tracks). Even in declining and poor areas (by the way, we did not see many of such areas) roads were so much better than in Lismore. We observed plenty of road work sites and saw various stages of road building. After seeing this I can say for sure that the Lismore council goes for cheap solutions (we observed road building around Modanville and saw how it was done) and the result is obvious. Bad Lismore roads are memorable to everyone who drove there once.
Americans take their roads very seriously and the result is marvellous. I know that Australian population of less than 20 million provides for building roads in the country of the size of the USA (where they have something like 300 million people) and Australia is a country with good roads in comparison with Russia, for example. However, I believe, if our councils stop looking for shortcuts in road building we will benefit much more and at the end it will cost less.
Shortly, I was impressed by the roads.

How many huge roads they have! A road can have 6-7-8 lines one way. It is impressive and depressing at the same time. All lines are full, all roads are full. I had an impression that there is no off-pick traffic on American highways. Every line is choko-block, even in a desert. Only twisted tourist drives have easier traffic conditions. Looking at the amount of cars I understand why this country bullies the whole world in order to get as much petrol as possible. This country will be in chaos if they cannot drive.

I am surprised with the amount of driving people should do to get somewhere. All cities we saw so far (Los Angeles, San-Francisco, Las Vegas and some smaller places along the Western Coast) are overstretched. Americans prefer to live in individual houses than in apartments. It is typical for Australia too, and our suburbs are endless, just like here, in America. However, our suburbs have shopping centres, which are quite compact and if you park a car somewhere close to the shopping centre, than you can do your shopping on foot quite comfortably. In America shopping centres are stretched so far, and distances between buildings are so unreasonably big that walking does not make sense. It is more sensible to drive from one part of the shopping centre to another. Everything is spacious here. On one hand it looks relaxing. On another hand – it is impractical, and costly. Countries with compact residential tendencies such as Russia or China have an advantage. Councils have an easier job to provide for the population, maintenance is chipper. Well, living cheaply is not on American agenda. They spend generously, and unnecessarily, on their cities.

By the way, Americans spend a lot on their cars (I don’t mean petrol). They buy big cars, which are costly, and eat a lot of petrol, which is also costly. And they have ugly cars! I mean really ugly: huge, square, disproportional. This type of cars is popular, which means there should be some good qualities in them, but why not to design them? Don’t hey care? We spotted many huge campo vans: I never saw anything like this. The sizes are monstrous, basically a size of a house, which illustrates another observation I made here: Americans love their comfort very much. They would love to leave house without leaving it. They take it with them, probably, quite literally. When I watched American movies about going on camping tour/fishing weekend (Honey, I shrank our kids and alike) it always seemed to be a comedy element. Now I start thinking that it is actually quite realistic.

They have different road rules. It is not surprising – every country has own ideas how to drive well, but what a foreign driver should do on the road? It could be a good idea to have leaflets with road rules info somewhere on the border, so tourists can learn a little. Some situations are confusing and in 2 weeks we have not resolved them. For example, on the crossroad no car has a priority; all 3 or 4 sides have a “full stop” line and sign. How do they know which one has to go first, if all drivers come to the intersection at the same time? I think our way is more safe and comprehensive…

On the other hand, Americans have very few speed cameras in comparison with Australia, but many more road policemen on duty. I found it is so much better and relaxing. Australian police leaves an impression of money making machine more than a traffic control aid. American police does what police suppose to do: controls traffic and secondly, gives tickets, probably. I was always a believer, that seen a policeman on the road is so much more effective than receiving a letter with a fine 2-3 weeks later.

To finalise my observations: everything is good on American roads and travelling can be quite pleasant, but I would not want to do it myself – too much stress in a busy traffic and too many stressed drivers, especially in the cities (just like everywhere else in the world, I guess).
In New York we will have a chance to learn about public transport system.

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

San Francisco

Why it is always the case that some essential moments are never mentioned in books, booklets and movies (San Francisco is so popular that it appears in all sorts of sources of information so frequently, nonetheless…)?

I would never guess that San Francisco is a cold city, but it is!
How cold it is here in comparison with the rest of California!
In one hour we drove from 36 degrees on the plains of California to 20 degrees in San Francisco.
From a monthly guide to SF in our hotel room I learnt that August here is “like the dawn of a new day. Cool summer temperatures begin to subside this month as warm weather rolls in and fog lifts by the afternoon”.
I am not sure I can say that cool temperatures subside when they reach 20 degrees in summer, and restaurants on the streets burn gas burners for their patrons, otherwise being on the street is unbearable.
By the way, last week they had 15 degrees max during the day! According to the local, the better month suppose to be September. One month a year fog sort of lifts above the city and you can see the sun. For the rest of the year, hot air from Sierra meets cold air from the ocean here. As a result it is always foggy and cold here!
Who calls it “summer”? It is worse than in Siberia!!! When we travelled in Siberia last year we had 30+ degrees for the whole week. Here they are happy to have 20 and call it “warm”! It is equal to our winter in the Northern Rivers. We meant to escape our winter but in SF we came back to the same winter environment, but even worse in some ways. It is so windy, that I could not continue our first expedition to China Town; I had to buy a fleece, otherwise I would die on the streets of SF. I caught a cold anyway and now I have a blocked nose.

And the fog, of course! I never knew that this city sank into a fog cloud. In the movies it is always sunny in SF, clear sky and people are dressed for a beach outing. What a fog they have here! The most remarkable fog ever! It covers tops of high buildings as if they are mountains and it moves so fast that I felt that the whole street floated with it. I have never seen before clouds shooting through the roof tops like missiles (nearly).

And the bridge! The one which suppose to be famous is invisible due to the fog, and another one, which is not famous even if it is a copy (sort of) of the Golden Gate bridge is grey!

Famous China Town in San Francisco was our first destination! Visually it is less impressive than Sydney China Town: the gates look insignificant, there is no well designed street as it is in Sydney, or even in Brisbane for that matter. Australian China Towns were designed quite recently, according to the modern ideas of beauty and comfort, that’s why they have a strong element of fake decorative purpose. SF China Town formed well before anybody thought of comfort for pedestrians, and this place is authentic, especially in contents. I would love to shop here! I am afraid no airline will tolerate excessive luggage…

Apart from China Town there are many entertaining things in this city. Outside the CBD – designed in 1970s therefore boring and full of copies of Twin World Towers: square and rectangular – and well before sleeping suburbs full of monotonous residential developments there is a band of old residential suburbs built well before modern regulations. They keep flavours of the past, full of architectural and topographical surprises and excesses, pretty and charming. In between there are streets of busy cafes and restaurants, small shops and old churches, sex industry streets and well designed gardens. This is the best of San Francisco with international and historical flavours. We would be happy to spend more time there, but alas… it is time to go.

We will remember busy streets, fat seagulls, sleepy and horny sea lions on the Pier 39, practically invisible in the fog Golden Gate Bridge (we will remember that we hardly could see it!!!), twisted and steep streets, the magnificent collections of the Modern Art Museum and Asian Art Museum, cold winds along the streets and strange optical effects on the water and in the air…

San Francisco is a city to remember, and to visit, but, please, get dressed for a cold weather

http://picasaweb.google.com/Tatiana.I.Efremova/SanFrancisco

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Clouds in San Francisco



Pay attention to the strange optical effect in the clouds: the pyramid makes an impression in the sky. San Francisco is full of strange optical effects and illusions.

Glacier Point View, Yosemite Park, California

Pot Hole Dome, Yosemite Park

Yosemite Park, California

Eastern Sierra, California

California offers so much more to a human eye than Nevada!

Even the Death Valley was prettier than Nevada desert. Despite its ugly title the Death Valley had a variety of shapes and sizes of hills and mountains, sand dunes, salt lakes… It was more entertaining than Nevada desert.

But what a variety of climatic conditions and living environments California offers!

After the Death Valley with its desert environment we visited Mammoth Lakes District. I instantly felt at home. Who could imagine that California offers Siberian scenery? I expected Canada to be very similar to Siberia, but California???
Rivers and lakes with rocky beds and crystal clear and icy cold water, rocky mountains with pine trees, cliffs and occasional sandy beaches, modest flowers among grass, squirrels on the trees – it is all so familiar from childhood. It is exactly what Mammoth Lakes are. The only pleasant difference is absence of mosquitoes. Whatever the reason is – there were no mosquitoes whatsoever, while in Siberia mosquito plague is one of the worst problems in summer. Apart from this, the picture is basically identical!

Also we saw Mono Lake, which happened to be the most surreal landscape, one of the most memorable I’ve seen so far (and definitely it will be always one of the most memorable images of America for me), despite quite a modest vegetation around it. It is a combination of snow white and crow black islands among gentle blue-purple-pink waters of the lake, banks, sky and mountains on the horizon.

And of course, we visited Yosemite Park, which is made of rocks and pine trees, but rocks of an incredible size and pines of an incredible size!!! It is another memorable impression of America. What a gigantic playground of Nature! It is a good place to learn how insignificant we are in comparison with the forces of Nature. When you see a huge mountain broken apart like a plastic toy you ought to reflect upon a few questions, feelings, sensations… What a depth, what a space! It is one of the most beautiful places on this planet which are the must to see…

We saw endless hills with dried yellow grass just like in Victoria; we saw fruit and corn plantations which are so huge in size that can be compared with Bundaberg sugar and macadamia plantations. I have not noticed along the way any petite farm like ours; everything is huge!

I saw here mountains visually quite similar to mountains in Switzerland and Kazakhstan.

And coastal line offers quite a tropical environment, as I remember from Los Angeles.

What else will I see in this colourful state?



http://picasaweb.google.com/Tatiana.I.Efremova/YosemiteParkCalifornia

http://picasaweb.google.com/Tatiana.I.Efremova/MammothLakesDistrictCalifornia

http://picasaweb.google.com/Tatiana.I.Efremova/EasternSierraAndLakeMono

Mono Lake, California, August 2008

Santa Monica Beach, August 2008

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Grand Canyon

When we talk about icons we hardly can avoid banal statements…
I will try to avoid all well known things bout Grand Canyon… actually, what I knew was mostly visual images from movies about America, like Thelma and Louise, Westerns etc…
By the way, somehow images of Vinnetu the Apache Chief (for those who remembers “Indian” movies from Eastern Germany in the 60s and 70s), those images also blended into my ideas about Grand Canyon. Shortly speaking, when it comes to icons we know little truth and a lot of myths about the subjects.
Great Canyon happened to be what I expected it to be, and not quite the same.
One thing I have learned over the years of travelling – knowing nothing before you see the thing is the best thing.
I expected something absolutely spectacular, but what I found was a lot of rocks. May be I have been spoilt by seeing some spectacular and huge rock formations in Kazakhstan, Switzerland, China and in Kakadu Park (Australia). There are many breathtaking and beautiful mountains on this planet…
Great Canyon is also breathtaking, but mostly by the sheer size of it. Kakadu Park is sort of more petite, if such adjective can be applicable to such a massive cluster of rocks; however, Kakadu had colours and a variety of rock formations as well as vegetation and wild life to enhance the picture. Great Canyon is great, but with a limited palette and very modest vegetation to entertain human eyes. I cannot understand what all those Indians and sheriffs from American Westerns did in this deserted and hostile place. Well, of course, I know – gold kept them there. They say that gold and silver mines still operate in that area, but no gold would keep me there. The place was hot that I think it is one of the entrances to hell…
Nonetheless, I took a few photos.


http://picasaweb.google.com/Tatiana.I.Efremova/GrandCanyon

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Las Vegas

Everybody knows that Americans love show business, and they are very good at show business. Also everybody knows that Las Vegas is a show and gambling capital of the world, and Hollywood is a dream making capital of the world (together with Bollywood).

By the way, we even did not plan to stay in Las Vegas. Our original plan was to drive through to Grand Canyon. Unfortunately, in a high holyday season as now there were no accommodation available anywhere in Nevada except Las Vegas, so we had to stay there.
Everything I ever heard about Las Vegas is correct: it is exactly what I thought it is. There is no point to repeat all the same stuff about glamour, glitter and sin.
There was something I have never realised, however.

Las Vegas is a city of fakes, poor style fakes of a very good quality and on an incredible scale.
Nearly every building is a fake image of something: an African village, a Venetian palazzo, a tropical island, a pyramid, an Ancient Roman palace or even New York or Paris CBD, with all the appropriate clichés and attributes of the theme. Funny enough, nobody cares about a purity of style: an Italian baroque Bellagio has Chinese lions at the entrance; Caesar’s palace has a title written in Greek fonts, etc… The Venetia Palazzo is the most stylish, probably, more or less strictly keeping late Renaissance and Baroque style.
On the other hand everything is of a magnificent quality: the materials are the best (marbles, silks, sculptures…), the artists are the best (producing art in all imaginable styles with perfection), technology involved is mind boggling (coloured fountain shows, moving sculptures, canals running through the buildings)…
Do I sound like everybody else before me by now?..
As much as I despise fakes of any kind and treat it as a cheap kitch, I have to take my hat off in honour of all those artists who invested into this city’s dazzling madness. Las Vegas offers fakes of an outstanding artistic quality (as well as real crap, forgive me my French, as some would say), art which is on a borderline with masterpieces, or actually masterpieces, original in all respects. I hope my photo album reflects my feelings till certain degree.
One downside which cannot be overturned by the impressive scale of attractions is gambling and smoking. They come together, they are inevitable. The city stinks from a cigarette smoke, because everybody who gambles – smokes, and everybody in Las Vegas gambles (Chris and myself happened to be a rare exemption).

Visiting a couple of shows in Las Vegas and Universal Studios in Hollywood also revealed something about America: if they entertain – they do it properly. Every detail is thought through, the skills are incredible, no effort spared – and the result is always at least good, and sometimes excellent beyond imagination. From time to time I watch American shows on TV – no comparison to a real thing. TV robs a show on depth and colour and real life pulse. I have enjoyed the quality and professionalism of what I’ve seen in the last few days…


Photo album http://picasaweb.google.com/Tatiana.I.Efremova/LasVegas

Nevada Desert

As always – there is something I’ve learnt about the place and expected certain things, and as always – there is something no book ever mentioned…
I won’t repeat what I expected from Nevada – it can be read in books, articles, Internet.
What surprised me is that Nevada desert is really a desert. It is practically dead. We drove about 100 kms there and Chris spotted once a dead rat on a side of the road. I did not see it. As a matter of fact, I did not spot even a single fly. When you walk in an Australian desert (we drove from Adelaide to Lismore through Broken Hill in February 2008) there is always something happening: some animal will skip or crawl by, scavengers eat road kill, colours of the desert change, some twisters pop up here and there… Our drive in Nevada was quite uneventful in this respect. We saw some military equipment because a huge portion of the state is occupied by an air force military base and some crazy people (soldiers???) jogging in 42 degree hit.
From time to time a shop was popping up in a desert (instead of a twister), some odd pottery shop, or garden sculpture/outdoor features shop. They were huge and beautiful, well equipped and well stocked: thousands of pots of all sizes are under the open sky in a middle of a desert, or armies of garden lights of all sizes and designs… I cannot imagine who would go to a shop like this, hours of drive from any civilisation, to buy a pot or a garden light…
Also there were some odd beautiful hotels and casinos appearing in the mist of a desert like a mirage of some kind, maybe for those who cannot wait till Vegas and has an urge to start gambling right now…
What about the desert itself, I would not call memorable…
Chris would disagree with me (he finds this desert beautiful and interesting) but I believe there are much more beautiful deserts on this planet. Colours can be brighter, flora can have more variety, fauna was not present at all….

One thought occurred to me while we were driving: how Leonardo da Vinci could recreate in his mind Nevada desert? He could not possibly know about it, but the landscape in Mona Lisa is so strikingly similar to Nevada desert (apart from the shape of the mountains, maybe), especially in the mood and colour scheme. If you ever saw Mona Lisa you got an impression about Nevada desert.

Photo album http://picasaweb.google.com/Tatiana.I.Efremova/NevadaDesert

Saturday, August 9, 2008

Our First Day in the USA

First surprises in America + photoalbum http://picasaweb.google.com/Tatiana.I.Efremova/LosAngeles

Surprise one:
Have you heard that the USA is practicing democracy? That’s what I’ve learned from a world wide media citing uncountable statements of the American government and citizens. Well, it is well known: don’t believe everything you read in papers…
I learnt my first American lesson in the plane, because – technically speaking – it was an American ground because it was operated by an American company and had an American crew (even if we bought a ticket with Qantas – it is a common situation nowadays: you buy a ticket with one company and end up with another).
A few people were queuing to a toilet as it always happen, and each toilet had its own queue, as always. At some point a hostess came to us and told us that “according to an American law forming groups of three and more is illegal therefore we have to dissolve”. We – three passengers - startled a bit at this statement, and I could not help myself and asked her how we suppose to dissolve if the toilet is here and it is what we need. Her answer was: I don’t know how you suppose to dissolve but it is my duty to deliver American law to you.

OK, most likely she was in a bad mood (or maybe a bully by nature) and formulated her statement badly. Most likely, she simply wanted us not to block the traffic in the aisle. However, I have learnt something new: there is a law in America about forming groups of three and more people in public places.
Surprise, surprise… I would never imagine.


Surprise two:
Have you heard that the USA is a country of tips; that you have to tip everybody for every service provided? I heard it from every single person who travelled to the USA. I remember my initial “shock introduction” to tipping somewhere in Europe, Belgium or Holland. I was leaving a toilet which I thought to be public (sorry about another “toilet story” but essentials are more memorable than everything else) and was confronted by a gentleman who demanded a tip. He happened to be a cleaner in that toilet – and I happened to be a slow thinker – so we had a memorable dialogue about the importance of a reward for toilet cleaners (which does not make sense to me – Australia has the best toilets in the world without paying tips to cleaners). Coming from a country where tips do not really exist (I mean Australia and Russia, actually) I could not grasp this concept, not on the spot, anyway, but emotionally I was ready for tips in America…

When we landed in Los Angeles we expected to find a representative of the car rental company from which we rented a car (that was the agreement) – but nobody waited for us. Imagine our feelings at the time: not a single coin of local currency in our pockets, not knowing where ATMs and phones are in the building, a need to call the company to find out what is going on… Of course, it is all doable, but it is an unpleasant and unnecessary stress after a long and delayed flight.
Miraculously there was a gentleman in the airport who happened to be a “helper”. He did not have a uniform, did work at any help desk, but wondered around the place looking for “lost” passengers. His was a real “helper”: found a phone number of the company, called them from his mobile, waited for our situation to be resolved and the company driver to pick us from the airport, showed us everything we had to know or needed and stayed with us until we safely departed in our rented car. We had a nice chat, learnt a few things from him, and when it was time to say “good buy” we wanted to reward him – but he refused.
I think it is a great initiative of the airport administration – a very effective and personal service – and absolutely free. Surprise, surprise… I would never imagine.

Surprise three:

Is not it true that Los Angeles is one of the biggest cities in the world? Does not it mean that it has to be a modern and busy mega polis?
We drove through many suburbs and town centres of Los Angeles – it looks mostly quite provincial, in many ways just like Australia: green leafy streets full of light, shade and flowers, immaculately maintained gardens (as well less immaculately maintained), one-two-three storey buildings, casual and relax life style (anyway, it is how it looks).
Is not it a surprise?
What is definitely different – the style of buildings: a lot of Spanish- Mexican themes, many imitations of styles of the past: baroque, gothic – a lot of it on a grand scale… And the palm trees – they are so toll!!! I’ve never seen anything in the botanical world as toll as these palm trees!

Another surprise was – how easy we went through the customs. There are rumours about strict custom’s control on the border in the USA – we have not experienced it at all!

One thing is definitely as I heard about it – the smog. It is as bad as the smog in China. Pity!

Saturday, July 26, 2008

The first steps of our journey to the USA

It is July, mid winter in Northern Rivers. We are cold and dreaming of a way out of this cold misery. Chris found a solution - going to America, while it is summer there and winter here.

Now we are collecting travelling tips. We will need any advise we can get, because it always helps, and because we had enough frustration already even if we started planning our trip just a few days ago.
America reserves a huge potential for excitement, but for frustration as well: too many places to see, too many things to do, too many hotels to choose from, to many cars on offer... really, it is insane. If you want a hotel in Sydney you may get 20-30-40 hotels, 100 the most (actually, I have doubts that we have so many). It makes it quite easy to choose.
In every place we plan to visit in America there are thousands of hotels to choose from - how to choose?
I have to admit - I am quite lucky. Chris is a great manager and he spends a lot of time dealing with planning and booking. I am here only in a small advisory role. After all, Chris has been to the USA and knows where to go and what to see.

Chris keeps telling me that we will have a very relaxing holiday staying for a few days here and there, and staying in New York for 7 days! I know that for him 7 days in one place is way too long, but let's hope New York has plenty of attractions for those 7 days. By the way, we experienced our first disappointment with New York. Already! New York (or Broadway, to be precise) is known as a capital of shows. We tried to book something but - bad lack! Everything is very old and seen many times, or for little children, and most of it also was seen before, and some of them have so bad reviews, that we would be unwise to try to prove all those critics wrong. It well can be that New York is a bit sleepy during summer holidays, but I am disappointed with this city already. Did not they know that I am coming and love musicals?

So we did not book anything. However, we found 2 shows of Cirque du Solieil in Las Vegas. We may be lucky to see one of them. That's right: we are going to Las Vegas (I always thought that it was far from Los Angeles, but Chris believes that driving up and down is a piece of cake). Besides we will see Great Canion, Tijuana, San Diego, a few national parks, as well as Mammoth Lake, San Francisco etc.
I MUST see Santa Barbara for myself. "Santa Barbara" serial was on Russian TV for a couple of years when I left for Australia. I knew one Russian lady who ordered her parents to record Santa Barbara for her in Russia and to send it to her so she could watch it in Australia. It was a big event once.
Back then, when the show was on, we had a feeling that we know half of the local population in Santa Barbara. It is quite funny, actually... I wonder if I still may see some familiar faces? (I am joking)

I have heard about ever changing scenery of America. Australia is the same in this respect, and it is one of the things I love about Australia: the variety of landscapes available. I travelled with Trans Siberian Express from Beijing to my home town and I discovered that from the moment the train left Far East behind (something like one day train trip) there was nothing changing in Siberian scenery. 4 days of the same pine trees, the same plain, the same architecture. Australia does not offer interesting architecture either, but the rest is overwhelming. I hope, America won't disappoint me either.

I wish we were gone already. Our forecast predicts that we will have temperature below zero at nights for a week (at least). Las year we had once minus nine!!! We were not here - we travelled in Russia last winter (Russian summer). Our neighbour told us, because as all farmers he pays attention to rainfall and temperature.
We live in a subtropical area and out plantation is subtropical. That frosts were devastating. We had many trees suffering from a frostbite, and many of them did not recover at all. The frost was especially heavy along the creek in the galley, and this creek runs through the whole property. Two-three meters up the slope - and the trees had not suffered from any frost. It is heartbreaking, and nothing could be done about it... it is why instead of looking at it (and suffer from it as well - it is very cold here at night) it is better just go somewhere nice and warm.

Let's see, what will happen...